Eating in Vienna | 100 Days: Drinks, Dishes & Destinations | KQED

Eating in Vienna | 100 Days: Drinks, Dishes & Destinations | KQED

(“Violin Concerto No. 4” by Mozart plays) – I can’t believe I’m in Vienna! (laughs) I mean, I have not been here
since I was 10 years old with my brother, and my three
sisters, and my parents. And I remember vividly
standing in front of the Spanish Writing School, and just being in awe of the
magnificent Lippizaner Horses and bringing home a porcelain statue that sits in my living room to this day. I treasure it. So, I’m thrilled to be
exploring Vienna again. – [Leslie Voicover] 100
Days Drinks, Dishes, and Destinations is brought to you by. – [Broadcaster] With Ama Waterways, guests can climb, pedal, and journey beyond the beaten path. While cruising on storied
rivers across Europe. You can find out more at – When I picture my dad, Josh, I remember his hands. Strong, they were worn, stained. That was years of
hardworking as a lumberjack. His commitment, work ethic, values, that’s what really inspired
me to create Josh Cellars. – [Narrator] Other
worldly, and down to earth. Visit Napa Valley. – [Leslie Voiceover] Come with me to stamp your passport to delicious. I’m drinks and culinary
expert Leslie Sbrocco. And I’m traveling, tasting,
sipping, and savoring the world. To share my bucket list of
palette pleasing experiences. – Cheers!
– Cheers! – On 100 Days Drinks,
Dishes, and Destinations. – Everybody here is enjoying the world UNESCO heritage site that Vienna is. It is so filled with history. It is so filled with beauty. It is just, my cup is overflowing. (joyful screeching) I’m so happy! – [Leslie Voiceover] Magnificent
in the radiant sunshine or even in the pouring rain, and you can often get
both here on the same day. This famed city of
music and city of dreams was established in early Roman times. Waves of Crusaders heading to and from the Holy land passed through
this key center of trade. But it remained confined
by it’s protective walls until the 1700s. The walls came down as Vienna expanded and became capital city of
the Austrio-Hungarian empire, which stretched far across Europe until it’s collapse at the
end of the first World War. Since the mid 1800s, the outline of the old fortress city has been the Ringstrasse. A grand boulevard lined
with over the top examples of Baroque architecture. The sights seem endless. The City Hall, the Berge
Theater, University, Parliament, and the Twin Museums. And then there’s Vienna’s who’s who list of world famous minds and artistic talent. Think Freud, Hayden, Mozart,
Beethoven, and Klimt. – This street was considered the Broadway of the 1860s and 1870s and Johann Strauss Junior
lived here with his wife and it’s where he
composed the Blue Danube. He was quite a popstar. – [Leslie Voiceover]
There’s so much to see, so much to do, and so
much to eat and drink. It’s hard to turn a corner without a cafe beckoning to taste what this town is known for. Coffee. It doesn’t matter why or with who, there’s always time for coffee. But we’ll get to that. First with all the splendor, a walk-a-thon through Vienna is a must. And prepare for all kinds of weather, I mean, seriously bring
an umbrella and a coat. It can be wet and cold. Ah, but nothing warms you
up quite like a sausage. A sausage snack, of course, called wurst. – If you’re hungry or thirsty in Vienna, you can do what the locals do, which is to belly up to the bar at one of the sausage
stands and order Kasekrainer and even a glass or a
little mini bottle of Sekt. So he’s cutting it up into little pieces, putting some mustard on it. Beautiful. So this is a Kasekrainer. A cheese sausage with a
little bit of mustard, and some chewy soft bread. A little Sekt, or sparkling wine, and I’m diggin’ in. Hot! Whew, hot. Dripping with fat. Dripping with cheese. This pork sausage is
really a taste of Vienna. So don’t worry about stopping and sitting down for lunch
when you’re sight seeing. Just head on over to a sausage stand and grab a little cheese sausage. – [Leslie Voiceover] As
filling as a grab and go sausage and Sekt may be, to really experience the
city and culture of Vienna, I’ll need a true insider. And I have just the
resident guide in mind. A local who’s asked me to meet him for, you guessed it, coffee. – Simon, hello!
– Leslie! How are you? – Yes, welcome to Vienna, I’m fabulous. – Thank you, I’m excited to be here. – So I’m having a basic coffee here, its called a verlangerter. – Ferlangeter? – Verlangreter. – Verlangerter. – Yeah, that’s a black coffee
with a little bit of wine. – And then you have water on the side? – A water on the side. – All right, oh there we go.
– That would be an espresso. – This is an espresso. Tell me about the coffee culture
during the day, of Vienna. – Of course we have our coffee at home, but still, like, if I
would meet for a drink, it would be a coffee. Mostly actually, here, we
call them coffee houses, here. It’s not necessarily a coffee shop. – [Leslie] It’s a social
activity throughout the day. – [Simon] Certainly, yes. – I have to say that it’s very silky and it’s very fresh. – Notice here it’s also
the cup’s from the owner. I think there’s a signature here. It’s called Leopold’s Havorca. – [Leslie] Havorca? – [Simon] And the son
of this certain havorca still runs the place today. This used to be the who is
who of the famous writers and people from Vienna in the 60s and 70s. Apparently the interior design still is the same as it was in 1912. – [Leslie] Really? – Mainly it’s a little bit shabby-chic, but therefore it’s got a rich history. – It’s shabby-chic, it’s nice. I like it. – [Simon] And still to this day, the pastries are made right here. (Waiter speaking German) – [Leslie Voiceover] Owner Gunter Hawelka still makes his apple
strudel and buchteln daily. His only concession to modernity is his espresso machine. – [Gunter] The coffee house was started by my parents in ’39. – [Leslie] In 1939. – And after the war we carry on with the coffee house slowly, slowly, slowly
it wasn’t much better and then we had many people who said, “We want to make a modern coffee house.” So my father said, “We don’t. “We don’t make a modern place, “because this is Vienna
coffee house culture.” But, unfortunately, you don’t have many coffee house in this style any more because many people modernize. Which is for the Vienna’s
coffee house culture, very bad. My treasure is the coffee machine. I can make it very strong
and I can make it very light. We have our roast,
roasting our own coffee, the very common coffee’s Belonge. We have the small coffee’s a Kliener Gold. – Kleiner Gold.
– [Simon] Kleiner Gold. – This is Kleiner Gold, it’s a small gold coffee. This is for people who
have maybe heart problem. Then, Kleiner Brauner, then you have Kleiner Mokka, Melange, then you have Gewaltige. – [Simon] The Gewaltige.
– [Leslie] Gewaltige. – This is very, very slow. – Extraordinary one. – So it’s a whole different language in ordering protocol in
a Viennese coffee house. But if you order a
Melange, then you’re safe? – You’re safe, you cannot do much failure. – Although, I can smell
the coffee is wonderful. The this. – This is all made with
very good ingredients. My profession is I’m a pastry cook. My mother said we must have a specialty. So we start with a bit of buchteln. So you serve it warm. Yes, hot. It must be served hot because
the marmalade is very hot. – Yeah. – This is plum.
– Prune or plum? – Its a plum jam. – [Leslie] The bread is soft, and dense, and chewy, but not sweet. – The thing is when you
make it many, many times, many, many years you make the buchtelns, then you be always much better, better. (Leslie laughs) You’ll
be perfect in the end. – [Simon] Practice makes the master. – Well, they taste perfect to me. – The apple strudel too, is
something that you make here? – [Gunter] We make it in
our own roasting place outside of Vienna. – It’s a very thin crust and overflowing with the apple mixture. This is the best thing I’ve
put in my mouth in so long. – I’m very happy you like my buchtelns and you like my apple strudel. – Your strudel and your buchtelns! – [Gunter] This is very hot pieces because you have to come in the morning, and you go three o’clock in the morning. So this is almost 20 hours a day. – [Leslie] What is the future? – I’m already Grandfather. I have two sons, Michael and Amir. – And they’re gonna run the business? – They’ll carry on the business. I have given all away, all
the money, I give to my sons. Because invest the money for the future. Maybe he will not work so much as I do, but he will keep the business. – I want to be able to
come here when I’m 60, 70, and I want to find it just like it is now. – We will not change anything. It will stay how it is. – So the future is strong. – Yes. – Well, Gunter, thank you
very much, (foreign language). – Madam Sbrocco, pleased to meet you. – You too, (foreign language). – [Leslie Voiceover] I love Gunter’s deep respect for the
past and his commitment, to protect the coffee house culture that began way back in 1685 when, it’s said, that coffee was made with coffee beans left behind by the Turks when they fled the city. Austria is a landlocked country in the center of Europe far from the sea. But Vienna has made it’s
own watery recreation spots along the wide and deep river Danube as it flows past the city. A perfect entry for visitors, ships dock along it’s banks just a short ride from the city center. Engineers created an island in the river separating the main channel
from this slower flowing part. Not only is there a
leisure area on the island, there are places with
docks for pleasure boats, sheltered beaches for sun bathing, and grassy banks to enjoy picnicking. Hidden, but within sight
of the city center. – So this is a secret spot? – It is a secret spot to Viennese people. – And the city is right there. – [Simon] The city’s right there. We’re gonna see the UN buildings, we have a very high tower, the DC tower. It’s kind of a new environment for the international center. Lots of international
stuff is going on there. – So if you’re visiting Vienna and you just wanna come
out and live like a local, this is the way to do it? – This would be the way to do it. And you know what else? We’d need food, of course. – Well I will let you do the
bread while I do the wine. – Good, this wine is called Veinega. – And it’s a white blend
of local varieties. – It’s a white blend, yes, yes. – And it’s labeled DAC. Which means the highest quality. It’s a little spritsy,
it’s a little juicy, it’s like citrus peel. It is yummy and delicious, that wine. – [Simon] The bread that I grew up on, the bread that we have here in
Austria, is just phenomenal. – Oh look at that. It definitely has a
yummy wheat smell to it. Oh, and it’s soft and chewy. – [Simon] It’s very soft and chewy. – [Leslie] It’s like a sponge. It’s that dense and chewy.
– [Simon] It’s moist, yeah. – It tastes like cream of wheat, with little chunky, chewy
bits of malted wheat in there. And we do have some bubbles because– – We do have some bubbles, too. – ’cause I had the Schelumberger. – Yes.
– This is Sekt. – This is Sekt. – And people don’t know
Sekt, s-e-k-t, Sekt, from Austria and Germany
is the sparkling wine. – [Simon] Yes. And it’s a Gruner Veltliner Sekt. – So, Gruner Veltliner bubbles. Ah, that is so refreshing! All right so, to me
when you have something this refreshing and sparkling, I wanna go with something fatty and salty. – [Simon] Yeah, this is sausage
from the mountain region and they are famous for the sausages too, so I brought some here. This is smoked. – This is just dripping, I’m telling you, it’s dripping with gorgeous,
unctuous fat quality. – It’s very fatty. – Beautiful pork. Not too much spice. – [Simon] So here we have a Schardinger, that’s an upper Austrian brand for cheese. So this is called wine cheese. – [Leslie] Wine cheese. (giggles) – [Simon] Yes, it’s riped
in a red wine barrel and it’s a soft cheese. – (giddy squeal) it’s almost like kind of a brie cheese,
but when you bite into it, it’s got a really tangy finish. – So these are basically just waffles, but these are the most traditional waffle you can get your hands on. ‘Cause you see, there’s the
Steven’s Cathedral on here, and it also says, “V” underneath. – V as in Vienna. – Yes! These are made in the 16th district. They’re not vanilla, they’re like– – [Leslie] They’re chocolate inside. – Yeah no, it’s hazelnut.
– Hazelnut. – Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. You just break a piece, see they’re already pre-cut. – [Leslie] Very light
and not overly sweet. – [Simon] No, it’s not overly sweet. – [Leslie] Mhm-mm. And you know what? Just like everything else in the world, it’s better with bubbles. – [Simon] So this is
basically the summer getaway from the city which is 10
minutes from the center. You have the boats here, there’s a lot of rowing
competitions going on. We can swim here because the
water quality is perfect. – [Leslie] Vienna keeps surprising me. I’ll tell you, my heart is full. I am so happy right now. (clink) (upbeat classical music) – [Leslie Voiceover] Our picnic was a deliciously tasty interlude, but I’m ready to discover
more unique flavors of Vienna. And after a short ride to a spot still within city limits, I’m visiting a Heuriger,
or wine tavern, for dinner. Here they grow grapes
to make their own wine. Vines have grown along the
Danube’s banks since Roman times. And now there are hundreds
of wine producers, and nearly 1,800 acres of grapes, like Gruner Veltliner and Zwigelt, planted within Vienna’s city limits. In Heuriger Wolff’s rustic dining room, resident’s come to drink their wine, but also eat their famous wienerschnitzel that our host, Elisabeth Wolff, prepares. Pounding out the veil,
then dipping it in flour, and the beaten eggs, and
finally bread crumbs, before quickly frying it in oil until it’s golden and ready to serve. And in the Beucalla Gardens, (sigh) it’s the perfect place for sitting back and learning more about the
traditions of the Viennese. – Before we get to the wine, I’d like to look at the schpritzer. – The schpritzer, yes. – Weiseschpritzer. – We have a Weiseschpritzer. – You have a Veltliner schprizter, you have a Roater schpritzer, you have a Tiroller schpritzer. You have Veilkin schpritzer. – The Veilkin schpritzer.
– Veilkin. – Feilchen.
– Feilkin. – Make it a (blowing sound) (blowing sound)
– Like default. – Default.
– Fault. – File. – Like a cat (hissing sound). (Hissing)
– File. – File. (hissing sound) There we go. – Veilkin schpritzer. – All right, I would
understand you. There we go. That’s a violet spritz,
so it’s gonna come in a– – I will be much better
after I have a schpritzer. – Yes, definitely. – I will pronounce it much better. – So I’m bringing some snacks, do you want to order some schprizters? – I do. – Leslie, let me just
introduce you to Elisabeth. Elisabeth is the daughter of
the owner of this restaurant in place and this vineyard, actually. – Exactly, yeah. So we are now here since 1609 actually. (laughing) So over– – Just a few years.
– More than 400 years now. – That is crazy. – [Elisabeth] I’m now the 14th generation, since then we’re making wine in this spot. Back then it wasn’t a part of Vienna, but as the city grew it
became a part of Vienna. – [Leslie] And serving
traditional Viennese dishes? – Exactly, yeah. You can enjoy a small snack, or a whole dinner and
try a good glass of wine and sit together with family and friends. – That’s just what we’re gonna do now. – We’re gonna enjoy our
schpritzers and our schnitzel. – [Simon] Our schpritzer
and our schnitzel. – Tell me about the Roater schpritzer. – Yeah it’s a sparkling
water with a red wine. It’s really refreshing also. – And what is the red wine made from? What grape? – [Elisabeth] It’s from Zweigelt. – Zweigelt, okay. – You can mix it however you like. With a little bit more wine or less wine. – I like to do it half-half, which is very strong, but still. – Okay, so, and Zweigelt has this lovely gamme like lightness
and brightness to it. It’s a really fresh juicy red wine. (foreign language) – Enjoy. – That’s just how I like it.
– That’s good. So what we have here for starters, this is pickled pepperoni, and here we have a liptauer, which is like a– – [Leslie] This is liptauer? – Yes, so this is like a
pepper based cream cheese. This is cream– – And that’s got a kick,
though. This is paprika on top? – Yeah, it’s also quite spicy. A little bit spicy. – [Leslie] This is schmalt. – [Simon] Yes. – Basically fat, right? Rendered fat when you cook meat. – I mean, they do add
a little bit of spices, but, I mean, it’s tasty so. – That is good. – Nothing wrong with that. – There is nothing wrong with just fat. And this is a little fried fat. – [Simon] Yes. – Otherwise known as cracklins. – Here’s coming our Gusto platter. – This is just local specialties, right? Traditional specialties.
– [Elisabeth] Yes. So here we’re having
different Wineschpraten, our Blunztn. – And is this a blood sausage or no? – [Elisabeth] Yeah, it’s called Blounsna and we really enjoy to eat it in Vienna and in Austria with horseradish,
so it’s a little bit– – Ooh, horseradish, yum. – [Elisabeth] Spicy. Canoodle–
– [Leslie] Dumplings. – Very simple, it’s called dumpling, yeah. Grilled chicken. Over here, the weinerschnitzel and some friend vegetables. – [Leslie] All right, I’m diggin’ in. – [Simon] Dig in! – Fried vegetable. – I’m excited myself. This is like the most of Austrian food that you can get on one plate, so. – [Leslie] That is
fabulous pork of some sort. – [Simon] Yeah. – That! – [Simon] It’s gonna crack. – The pork loin’s super moist, and the skin is just like a little– (Simon makes cracking sound) (cracking sound) crunchy baseball bat. I’m goin’ in for the canoodle. – Go for it. Oh this is just like my
grandmother would make it, really. – The breading is so light. – Yeah. – But you need the sauerkraut to give you that little
punch, that little kick. When you have richer dishes like this, you need to have some acid, whether that comes from the wine, whether that comes from the lemon, or whether that comes from the sauerkraut. – True.
– To help cleanse your palette and balance out that fried food. – That’s something, too. Like, traditionally,
also a weinerschnitzel would come with a slice of citrus and a red currant jam. I did not grow up with that, so it’s like, for me, it’s
odd to put some jam onto the– – Right. Or you could just do this, this is red. – Yes, definitely it is. – Much better. This isn’t something that
you come home and say, “I’m gonna make myself”–
– No, no. – “Some weinerschnitzel.” – No, so this is also very special to me. I’m just appreciating the richness of the food that we have here. Especially because we’re not having this just in a regular restaurant. We’re having this at the place where it’s been celebrated forever and it’s perfected the recipes. – [Leslie] 400 years. – [Simon] 400 years! I mean– – [Leslie] (laughs) A mere 400 years. – [Simon] I’m flabbergasted by that, too. – [Leslie Voiceover] Other cities may have vineyard plantings, but Vienna is the only capital sporting true wine
country within the city. After a day of food and drink, I’m ready to explore the
city and right in it’s heart, you’ll find one of Vienna’s most significant and beloved sights. The Romanesque and Gothic architecture of Saint Stephen’s Cathedral. It’s been here for more than
700 years and is a must see. (slow classical music) I light a candle in my sister’s memory and take a moment to reflect and remember us together
as kids in Vienna. Then I meld back into
the throngs of visitors. Filled with artifacts, it’s the place where Joseph
Haydn sang as a choir boy. And where Mozart was married. Ah if the walls could sing. Leaving the church, music
is everywhere in the city. In fact, Mozart lived
just around the corner. – We’ve just arrived at his apartment. One of his apartments. He lived here in the 1780s and he wrote Le nozze
di Figaro right here. – Figaro, Figaro. – That one. – You’re a musical theater person, right? – Yes, I brought us another treat. One, two, three. So these are Mozartkugle. – Mozartkugle, otherwise
known as Mozart Balls. – Yes. – Mm a chocolate treat from Vienna. All right, here we go. – So many layers. We got marzipan, we’ve got white nougat, dark nougat, chocolate all
around it to round it out. – Creamy and smooth. – [Leslie Voiceover] The
pedestrian thoroughfare of the city center is crowded. But it does make it simple to walk to many of the historic sights. I wanted to find another destination filled with childhood memories. A timeless Vienna
institution, the Hotel Sacher. Home of the world famous Sacher-torte. Since 1876, the Hotel Sacher, has been the ultimate
in elegance and luxury. From the richly decorated entrance, to it’s jewel toned gathering rooms, dining rooms, and bars, where every wall and every corner hold something of beauty. And then there is the cafe. And of course, it’s
time for another coffee. Here, it’s coffee with a twist and cake. – Are you excited? – I am, you know, the Spanish Writing School,
– Yeah. – was a memory for me as a kid, but this is seared into my memory as well with the red walls and
this beautiful opulence. You know as a kid where
you’re feet are hanging down and you can’t even touch the floor, digging into chocolate cake. – But let me tell you,
it’s the same for me. I grew up in Linz, but
when we come to Vienna, we had to have a coffee here. Me as a child with chocolate cake, so I mean, this is also just something that is embedded in my
memory in my childhood. – And it’s not just chocolate cake. – No, it’s certainly not.
– This is a Sacher cake. – Oh, thank you very much. – [Server] Two original Sacher cake. – [Simon] Thank you so much. – [Server] Here’s your coffees. – This is the original Sacher coffee? – [Server] Yeah, with the
chocolate apricot liquor. – Oh look at that. Pure decadence. – It’s inspired on the
original Sacher cake. And two glass, Sacher Cuvee. Enjoy it. – (foreign language) You’re welcome. – Wow. – [Leslie] So it’s true that as a kid, growing up in Austria, this was a special treat as well? – [Simon] Certainly. – [Leslie] Not just for
American tourists visiting. – I was in a rush before Christmas, and I didn’t know what to
bring like all of my family, so I came here and got me
a big piece of Sacher cake and I brought it home and
everybody was like, “Yes!” This is just something that
you want to experience. – It’s iconic. – Yeah. In Vienna restaurants if
you order a chocolate cake they might call it Sacher cake– – [Leslie] But it’s not. – [Simon] But it’s certainly
not from this hotel here. And this recipe is
also, I guess, a secret. – It was a happy circumstance
that this apprentice in 1832 was able, because
the main pasty chef was sick, he was able to create
this incredible desert that became so world famous. When you put that cake into your mouth, it’s like little crystals
of chocolate and apricot exploding in your mouth. There is a crystalline little
quality to it, isn’t it? – Yes. – It’s sweet, but it’s not overly sweet. And the chocolate on top
is actually quite light. – [Simon] It’s so sweet yeah. – [Leslie] And it looks like it would be this heavy chocolate
frosting, but it’s not at all. – They know what they’re
doing with the chocolate here. – They certainly do. – It has three different
types of chocolate in it, and especially at the time
that this was coming up, chocolate was a very rare good, so basically this is like,
luxury in the form of a pastry. – The apricot jam adds
this lovely freshness, and this lovely zest, and another little layer of sweetness. – It balances it out, yeah. – Another little layer of sweetness, but balancing it out. Oh my, my, my, my. There is no sugar in this. (laughing) It’s like drinking a warm milkshake of coffee and chocolate and apricot. Mm. Now, the Sacher Cuvee. They’ve blended this
Sekt to go with the cake. – [Simon] Yes. (glasses clink) – Oh that’s delicious. This cake is everything
I remember as a kid. It brings back these memories of sitting here with my family. My brother and sisters, and my parents, and digging in as a child. And it looks the same, and the cake is even
better than I remember. I just remember as a kid, chocolate cake. And what an experience. – I’m glad that we’re doing this. – Mm-hmm. – [Leslie Voiceover] And
just across from the hotel, you’ll find the Vienna Opera House. One of the leading opera
houses of the world. It’s an imposing building
during the daytime, but even more so at night. And if you don’t have
a ticket, not to worry. You can sit outside to watch a livestream of the production inside
on the dropdown screen. But do dress warmly, as it can get chilly. And on the night I was there, very windy. – Being in Vienna has far
exceeded my childhood memories. I have been grinning
from ear to ear for days. As an adult I can appreciate
the elegant architecture and enjoy the traditional
dishes from schnitzel, to strudel, to Sacher-torte. And of course a few sparkling
surprises like Sekt. And where else can you
listen to a world class opera without a ticket right here
in front of the opera house? Until next time (foreign language). – [Leslie Voicover] 100
Days Drinks, Dishes, and Destinations, is brought to you by. – [Broadcaster] With Ama
Waterways guests can climb, pedal, and journey,
beyond the beaten path. While cruising on storied
rivers across Europe. You can find out more at – When I picture my dad,
Josh, I remember his hands. Strong, they were worn, stained. That was years of hard
working as a lumberjack. His commitment, work ethic, values. That’s what really inspired
me to create Josh Cellars. – [Narrator] Other
worldly and down to earth. Visit Napa Valley. – [Leslie Voiceover] For more
information on all episodes along with our expanded digital series, including behind the
scenes footage and stories, and links to follow me on
Facebook and Instagram, go to – Enjoying the history
and the picture-rest. (laughs) – Ah!
– I know right. – It’s hard to eat on camera, isn’t it? – It is ’cause you don’t wanna
have anything in your mouth. – I know you’re like, okay I’m full. Don’t worry about stopping for lunch, just look for a vert stand. I, is that what it is? – That was good. – I had to. Sorry. (laughs) – [Director] We didn’t get that, so. – I have to do that again? – Got milk?

3 thoughts on “Eating in Vienna | 100 Days: Drinks, Dishes & Destinations | KQED

  1. Never watch stuff like this…….I enjoyed this program from beginning to end. Thank you for the brief mental journey PBS.

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